Last Thursday I took a bus with the University to Las Fallas, a popular celebration in Valencia on el dia de San Jose (Saint Joseph), Spain's Father's Day. The history of the festival is not known for sure, but some say that is began in the middle ages when artisans would burn their scrap wood to celebrate the spring equinox. Today the fallas are elaborate sculptures of wood and cork formed into mystical, satirical and sometimes grotesque designs. I've heard it described as Spain's Disneyland. There are Fallas of all sizes and some with fanciful non-descript characters as well as some recognizable ones, like Sherlock Holmes.
My anthropology teacher kept describing the fallas as bien hechas (well made) and after seeing the creativity and detail that goes into each sculpture I definitely agree. The Falla artists spend all year on their creations and there is even a degree in Valencia for aspiring sculptures. How they burn their art that they have worked so hard on, I have no idea, but I guess that is the ultimate goal. Though one of the miniature fallas does get saved at the Falla's queen's request.
We waundered around the city on Thursday, pushing our way through the crowds to see the various fallas, each created by different neighborhoods. The streets were flooded with people as the city's population grew from its usual million to 3 million during Las Fallas.
Then around midnight it was time for la cremà (the burning) starting with the smallest fallas and ending with the largest around 1am. The largest Falla was burnt as the grand finale with a huge firework display, easily more fireworks than I had ever seen before.I don't know if the Decemberists were referring to Las Fallas in their song, but it definitely seemed like the whole city was going to go up in flames.
I really enjoyed Las Fallas but I think its something that is worth seeing once in a lifetime. Too much noise and smoke and too many people, but still a great spectacle to see!
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